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bowtie6872
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kyhunter89 wrote:
itll only get 93. stock iron heads with 9.5 to one then swap to some smaller aluminum ones should up it and let me stay on 93.


aim for 10 to 1 then with iron..
cause your engine will not be blueprinted.. and the piston will be down the hole more than the blueprint #
so 10 to 1 pistons (you need to know the cc of heads chamber)
will be closer to 9.70 with the iron.
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kyhunter89
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

one point of compressionb is worth 6% increase in power as a general rule?
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1fast72nova
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

to make a motor run good it needs the three C's.. cam, carburation and compression.
to make a car run good it needs the cam, converter and gears...

all right, 4:30's, 700r4 tranny, 488/510 cam (summit or ede rpm?)


with that cam (if your heads breath ok) you're going to shift at 6500 rpm, maybe a bit higher depending on the intake, but saying 6500 that's going to let you hit second at 40 mph, and if you're hooking good then this is going to be good. .. a 70 mph cruise rpm of 2600 or so will be good too. so no worries here.
I'd say run about a 3000 rpm stall, this is going to be a little loose but if your gentle on the throttle and not slip the converter all the time it's going to last. also if it's a lockup you're good too.
you didn't mention the carb or intake but if you're going to have some nice headers and free flowing exhaust don't be scared of a single plane intake here at all. a motor is just an air pump and the straighter shot the air/fuel has at the cylinder the better, but don't over carb it. the single plane will pull from all 4 barrels where as a dual plane only pulls from 2, so stick with nothing bigger than a 750 cfm.
if you're going to run an hei get a good one, they are around $50 for an el cheapo on ebay, and those will turn 7200 rpm all day long. a good buy for the cash,
also mentioned was your compression. like stated, if these are reman pistons they are probably going to under the deck a bit so not only are you giving up compression but you're giving up your quench too. run a steel shim gasket, either a .015" or .027" (.015 if you can find them and you know that you 1: have straight heads and block and 2: can keep t cool)
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kyhunter89
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-981-16/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1106/

these a good match?
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1fast72nova
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

persoanlly, I would say yes, but it's better to call summit and ask them what they suggest.
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bowtie6872
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kyhunter89 wrote:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-981-16/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1106/

these a good match?


don't call summit..
call comp.
and ask what springs they'd run with your cam..
1800 cam help
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kyhunter89
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thems the springs Comp Cam quest told me i need. supposed the cam SUmmit brand is made by Comp.
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1fast72nova
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that cam doesn't look like a comp cam, at least not by the grind...
closer to the Edelbrock cams but it's not a split duration...
Maybe more like a crane grind?
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bowtie6872
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well thats fine but summit tech isn't a cam tech
crane is closed up
comp. can offer up what springs to run on that cam..
I'd trust a comp tech over the summit , general tech..
thats just reading from a computer picked part #
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spidergearsman
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

iskenderian tool room series
last valve spring i needed bill ceralli gave me a used lunati for free
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kyhunter89
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

any oil still have zinc in it?
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spidergearsman
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MOBIL 1 10W 30


THATS IT , MAYBE BRAD PENN
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kyhunter89
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

why just 10w30 mobil 1?
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1fast72nova
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was under the impression Rotella was the one to use, I try to only run rollers so I haven't kept up with it too much. GM EOS was back in the dealers for a while, Spidey might know more about that. it's what I'd use if you can get it.
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spidergearsman
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the diesel oil doesn't have the zinc anymore
the eos isn't as zinc rich as it was
all diesels have roller cams
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